US-45: The Ontonagon Reversal, 1971–73
Jump to: Early History • To Upgrade or To Relocate? • Ontonagon-Greenland Upgraded; Greenland Bypassed • New US-45 Opens, Problems Begin • The Reversal Occurs • US-45 & M-38 Today • Animated Map • Additional Information
Present-day US-45 is likely the most important state trunkline serving the Upper Peninsula port community of Ontonagon and county seat of Ontonagon County and the first trunkline route established in the area. US-45 stretches 1,297 miles from Mobile, Alabama, on the Gulf of Mexico, to its northern terminus in downtown Ontonagon on Lake Superior. US-45 was not an original U.S. Route for Michigan when the others debuted in 1927—it initially terminated in Des Plaines, Illinois for seven years before the route was approved for extension from Illinois through Wisconsin and into Michigan to end at Ontonagon.
Early History
The first state trunkline route into Ontonagon was Trunk Line 68, established March 16, 1914, along the present-day US-45 corridor from M-26 northwest through Rockland to Ontonagon. At the time, "highways" in much of the Upper Peninsula were little more than double-track sand or dirt trails, gradually improved over subsequent decades.
Originally designated Trunk Line 68, the route became M-68 when trunklines were first signed in 1919. In 1927, it was redesignated as part of M-35 when that route was extended west from L’Anse to Lake Mine, then along M-26 to the eastern end of M-68, replacing M-68 through Rockland and Ontonagon before continuing toward Silver City. This configuration lasted only eight years, until US-45 was extended north into Ontonagon.
Now, US-45 ran north through Watersmeet, Bruce Crossing, and Rockland to Ontonagon. M-26 and M-35 began southeast of Rockland, passing through Mass City and split at Lake Mine, where M-26 continued toward Houghton and M-35 turned east toward Baraga and L’Anse, while M-64 extended west from the north end of US-45 at Ontonagon along the Lake Superior shoreline toward the Porcupine Mountains. This arrangement remained largely unchanged for the next 36 years. Interestingly, in May 1933, the highway subcommittee of the State Administrative Board had actually approved the addition of a 13.5-mile long trunkline route between Ontonagon and Greenland along the Ontonagon–Greenland Rd route, possibly as a new route for M-35. However, the Ontonagon–Greenland route was not established at that point for reasons currently unclear.
During this period, the Rockland–Ontonagon route was gradually improved. The Woodspur-to-Ontonagon segment received a 16-foot-wide gravel and macadam surface in 1923, followed by similar upgrades 
between Rockland and M-26. In 1930, the remaining segment between Rockland and Woodspur was improved with an 18-foot-wide surface. The route was given a bituminous surface in 1940, though by 1945 it was again shown as gravel on official state highway maps, likely due to deferred maintenance during World War II. By 1948, US-45 from Woodspur south through Rockland to M-26 was repaved to a 20-foot width, with the stretch from Woodspur north to Ontonagon completed in 1951/52.
By the late 1960s, most trunkline highways in the region had been upgraded to "All-Season Route" status, allowing full legal truck loads year-round. (See map at right.) US-45 between M-26 and Ontonagon, however, still had seasonal load restrictions due to its "flexible pavement." This was increasingly problematic as the regional economy depended on reliable transportation. The copper mining industry was still operational in the regional, albeit reduced from its peak in the 1910s and a resurgance during World War II. Huss Ontonagon Mill Division of Hoerner Boxes, a major pulp mill in Ontonagon, was another major contributor to the area's economy. While rail service handled much of the pulp mill freight, trucking was becoming more important for the lumber and timber industries. These conditions set the stage for the "Ontonagon Reversal."
To Upgrade or To Relocate?
One option was to reconstruct the existing US-45 route via Rockland. Another was to improve a parallel county road between Greenland and Ontonagon, the aptly named Ontonagon–Greenland Rd. Although relatively straight, this road had poor a horizontal alignment and would require substantial upgrades and a 
complete modernization to meet All-Season Route standards.
Precisely why the Department of State Highways ultimately chose to upgrade Ontonagon–Greenland Rd and incorporate it into the state system is unclear. Contemporary news reports, however, stated, "the new 13.1-mile route will provide traffic east of Greenland with a shorter, modern access route to the western part of the Upper Peninsula."
The problem was the decision to reroute US-45, replacing M-26 northeasterly through Mass City then northwesterly along the upgraded Ontonagon–Greenland Rd to Ontonagon, with the original route through Rockland and Woodspur being slated for transfer to county control. While the new alignment would benefit traffic from the east and northeast, it would add nearly five miles for northbound US-45 motorists—still a major source of traffic into Ontonagon. Heavyweight loads would be required to follow the new Ontonagon–Greenland Rd route, while all other motorists could choose either route.
Ontonagon–Greenland Upgraded; Greenland Bypassed
Plans to modernize Ontonagon–Greenland Rd were drafted in the late 1960s. Most of the right-of-way acquired and construction contracts were let in 1969, and work began shortly thereafter. US-45 traffic was unimpacted as it remained on the Rockland route during construction of the new highway. The project included a northern bypass of Greenland, home to the Adventure Mine tours, Ontonagon County Fairgrounds, and the developing Adventure Mountain Ski Hill, which opened in 1971.
The existing Ontonagon–Greenland Rd was a typical rural, paved county-maintained roadway, with a bituminous ("chip seal") surface, likely 18 to 20 feet wide, with some vertical alignment deficiencies. As a result, the Department of State Highways engineered a largely new alignment. In some areas it followed the existing roadway, but most of it was built adjacent to it, typically within 200 feet. Two sections deviated more significantly: near the Flintsteel River crossing, where the new alignment ran up to 400 feet south of the old road, and along the Greenland bypass, where it ran up to 1,700 feet (⅓ mile) to the north.
Because much of the new highway paralleled the old road, relatively few structures were affected. Approximately a dozen homes required relocation or removal. In some cases, properties, including the iconic, long-abandoned Ontonagon County Poor Farm, ended up farther from the new highway than before, requiring new driveways or continued access via segments of the former road that became service drives. The images below help illustrate the the location of the new alignment with the former county road.
Looking northwesterly along present-day M-38 (constructed as the new alignment for US-45 in 1970–71)
just northwest of the Woodspur Rd–Daniels Rd intersection, approximately 2⅓ mile southeast of downtown Ontonagon. The original alignment of Ontonagon–Greenland Rd is indicated on the right side of the photo with the red-dashed lines.
Aerial image of present-day M-38 (constructed as the new alignment for US-45 in 1970–71) at the now-abandoned Northwoods Candlelight Inn restaurant approximately 3⅓ miles southeast of downtown Ontonagon showing the original alignment of Ontonagon–Greenland Rd with red-dashed lines. Note how the Candlelight Inn's parking lot actually incorporated a portion of the old roadway after the new state highway alignment was constructed.
New US-45 Opens, Problems Begin
On May 12, 1971, the Department of State Highways petitioned the American Association of State Highway Officials (AASHO), the organization tasked with approving all additions, deletions and relocations on the U.S. Highway System, to relocate US-45. The proposal routed the highway northeast along M-26 through Mass City, then northwest along the newly constructed Ontonagon–Greenland Rd alignment into Ontonagon. The Department's request stated, "This change in numbering is requested in order to utilize a higher type facility that will accommodate the most important and heaviest motor traffic flow in the area." AASHO approved the request on June 22, 1971.
The new route opened to traffic on Friday, October 22, 1971. M-26 markers along the Mass City segment from Rockland Rd to Ontonagon–Greenland Rd were replaced with US-45 signage, shortening M-26 by approximately five miles. Although the new Ontonagon–Greenland segment itself was approximately ½ mile shorter than the Rockland route, the overall length of US-45 increased by five miles due to the added distance via Mass City.
A long-standing Department of State Highways (now MDOT) policy encourages transferring jurisdiction of (or "turning back") bypassed trunkline segments to county and municipal control. The Rockland Rd route was intended for such a transfer, which would reduce state maintenance obligations, as it would result in a decrease of state trunkline mileage in the county by ½ mile. Swapping a substandard route for a modern, first-class, "All-Season" one with a net decrease of overall mileage made perfect sense from the Department's perspective. However, this turnback never occurred, setting the stage for future complications.
Although US-45 signage was removed from the Rockland route in October 1971, it remained under state jurisdiction into 1972. The Department repaved the roadway in anticipation of transferring it to local authorities. Interestingly, the official "establishment" date for the new Ontonagon–Greenland Rd alignment for US-45 did not take place until March 1, 1972, although trunkline establishments were often just a formality depending on successful close-out of a construction contract or for other technical reasons—it was fully a state highway route from its opening date and maintained under State jurisdiction. While establishment of a relocated trunkline often occurred simultaneously with cancellation (turnback) of the former route, this did not happen here.
Even with the completion of the new, modern route for US-45, the former Rockland Rd route remained attractive to motorists: it was shorter, in good condition, and suitable for most traffic except certain heavy loads. The old route's main deficiencies were lack of All-Season status, the travel lanes were a foot narrower (Rockland Rd has 10-foot wide lanes, the new Ontonagon–Greenland Rd lanes are 11 feet wide), and shoulders on the new roadway were a bit wider. Because many drivers continued using the Rockland Rd route, local officials were reluctant to accept responsibility for a high-volume roadway. This created a jurisdictional stalemate.
Looking northwesterly along present-day US-45 from a point approximately ⅔ mile northwest of Dahl Rd, about 3½ miles northwest of Rockland.
Unfortunately, for local businesses along the route, the former US-45 was caught in a state of limbo. The road was no longer signed as US-45, yet it was not formally renamed or transferred. Businesses and residents were left without clear addresses or route identification, leading to confusion and growing frustration. Road- and street-naming is under the purview of local authorities, but with the former US-45 still under state jurisdiction, the Ontonagon County Road Commission took no action on any street name changes. Ideally, a coordinated campaign would involve state, county and local authorities managing the road-naming and addressing changes, however this did not occur. One example reported in local media was that of Fern Koski, owner of Fern's Cabins in Rockland. She appeared in front of local government leaders several times in 1972 complaining about the issue, stating, "There is no identification for our businesses; we're not Rockland Road, we're not US-45; we're not anything...." But with the limbo that the former US-45 route was in, the neither the State, County nor local authories took any action.
The Reversal Occurs
Following the repaving project and mounting complaints from local residents, the Department of State Highways conducted "origin-and-destination surveys" which question motorists on the beginning and ending points of their travels and the route taken in order to help highway planning efforts. These surveys revealed "that the majority of the motorists approaching Ontonagon from the south on US-45 (or the return trip from Ontonagon south to US-45) are not utilizing the signed route but are using the old improved highway," according to Department officials.
On May 1, 1973, almost exactly two years after requesting the relocation, the Department petitioned AASHO to restore US-45 to its former route through Rockland. Although their application stated they had believed the Ontonagon–Greenland alignment "was considered to be a superior route," they also cited the traffic surveys and traffic volume data as reasons "to re-establish the old route as US-45, which meets the US numbering criteria that the shortest and best available route be used." Exactly two years and four days after approving the initial move, the AASHO Route Numbering Subcommittee "found [the application] to be favorable" and approved the request on June 26, 1973, restoring US-45 to the Rockland alignment.
With US-45 returned to its original route, M-26 was extended back through Mass City to its previous terminus southeast of Rockland. The Ontonagon–Greenland route, however, remained on the state highway system. Rather than relinquish a newly constructed, $4 million modern highway, the state extended M-38 west from its terminus near Lake Mine along M-26 for a mile, then westward along the new route into Ontonagon. This increased the length of M-38 by nearly 14½ miles and brought it to a new western terminus at US-45 at the corner of River St, Steel St and Greenland Rd in front of the Mobil gas station and the Holiday Stationstore. When actual signage in the field is changed is unclear, but while the 1973 Official Michigan Highway Map still showed the former configuration (with US-45 via Mass City and Greenland), internal Department of State Highway maps published July 1, 1973 show the new arrangement. It can be assumed the changeover likely occured sometime that summer.
US-45 & M-38 Today
Aside from later improvements—such as the 2005–06 construction of a new M-64 bridge over the Ontonagon River, subsequent removal of the former Ontonagon River Swing Bridge, and related route adjustments—the alignments of US-45 and M-38 have remained largely unchanged since The Ontonagon Reversal of the early 1970s. Today, both routes are designated All-Season highways, though M-38 continues to accommodate wider loads.
This "Ontonagon Reversal" provides an example where a purely scientific and engineering approach to local transportation issues didn't account for real-world impacts and where the Department of State Highways changed course to provide a better outcome which continues to service regional traffic needs today.
Present-day view along US-45 looking northerly approaching the M-26 junction southeast of Rockland. After turning left here for 44 years, signs in 1971 would be changed to indicate a right turn for US-45 (and no mention of M-26). Two years later, the situation was restored much like it is seen here today.
The Ontonagon Reversal: Animated Map
Additional Information